After a good breakfast with fruit, amazing muesli followed by Eggs Benedict, our mini-bus and trailer awaits to transport us and our luggage to the Zambezi National Park and to Tsowa Safari Island in the middle of the Zambezi River.
Thirty minutes’ drive along the deserted main road in the direction of Botswana, we transfer into two Safari Land Cruisers and proceed along a dirt track through the shrubby landscape, dotted with giant trees. It quickly becomes obvious that the elephants have been here recently as their dung is everywhere and the driver/guides Zuli and Zen swerve to avoid it on the track. The grass has been trampled flat and the trees look like a newly pruned orchard. We are on the brow of a hill looking down. In the distance is a green ridge which marks the Zambezi River and our destination. As we progress, the sight of a dung beetle rolling a prise of very fresh elephant dung along the track suggests the elephants are not far away.
Sure enough, a few minutes down the track, our way is blocked by a female elephant with her head in the bush and most of her body across the road. Ahead is what looks like another female with some youngsters.
Surprisingly, they blend into the landscape and from a distance can look like rocks unless moving. Our driver Zen says it must be a family or breeding group as there are all ages. Suddenly, on our right, a huge male becomes apparent. He is partly covered by bushes and tree branches. There is nothing we can do but wait while they graze. We are all in awe at being this close and are more than happy to just sit and watch. Slowly, the path ahead becomes clear and we move, but not before we let the large male go ahead. It’s not a good idea to come between him and the rest of the tribe.
We progress at a delicious snail’s pace until there is a sudden surge from the herd and elephant are emerging from the bush onto the track. We turn a corner and watch in amazement thirty elephants of all sizes piling into an inlet off the Zambezi River. It’s a perfect watering spot. One bank has a mud bath which seems to be a favourite of the middle sized. Others are drawing up muddy water in their trunks and spraying their bellies. Some are playing with each other and all are drinking and cooling down from the heat of the day. It’s a wonderful sight for our first day of Safari but suddenly it’s time to return to the task of grazing. They quickly melt back into the bush.
Elephants must consume huge amounts of food as their digestive system is inefficient. 40-60% of their food is absorbed. This means their dung is a great source of food and fertilizer.
We also spot two Giraffes, one watching us over the top of a tree, the other a skeleton. His bones, bleached white by the sun have lain there since being killed by three male lions two years ago.
We transfer onto a boat for a short journey to the Tsowa Safari Lodge for a late lunch and to discover our beautiful accommodation.
A river view
In the late afternoon we take to the river again, looking for Hippos. They spend their days submerged in the waters overhung by trees near the bank only emerging to breath. Mostly only the ears and eyes can be spotted when they surface. Occasionally their whole head emerges and you get a yawn, often with grunting hippo noises. They are plentiful here as are a great array of birds. There are red-billed Hornbills and small, brightly coloured birds who nest in the muddy river bank. Egyptian Geese have adapted here to roosting and nesting in trees and there are beautiful Kingfishes sitting on branches, waiting for fish.
In the fading light a tribe of Baboons are making their way down the river bank. Large males, females with young catching a ride on or underneath mother. The young ones seem to play as they travel looking ghostly in the fading light.
The sun is setting and as is the custom here, we make land to enjoy nibbles and drinks. There’s a range of tastes in the group from Gin & Tonic to beer to sparkling water, consumed whilst watching the passage of day to night.
Back at the Lodge we gather around the fire pit with pre-dinner drinks before eating exquisite food. It’s been a good start to our Safari and Richard, our Outside the Square leader says it is unprecedented to see so many Elephants. There were none in the area on his last tour.
How fabulous. And that large elephant herd…… such a special, unique experience.
Great photos too. I’m in awe. X