Tsowa 19th May

We take an optional early morning walk, guided by Zulu, to look at flora and fauna on Tsowa Island. The lava of the Lion Ant which makes a conical depression in the sand to trap insects. They are everywhere. At the bottom, the larvae make a hole in which to live, reaching out of it when a stray insect falls into their trap and can’t escape, devouring it. When it needs to move to a better location or is ready to change into an adult Ant, it sweeps away the side of the cone to escape their own trap.

Next up is a huge, slow-moving Millipede making it’s way across the path. Zulu explains that it excretes a substance to deter animal from eating it. Nevertheless, some birds do eat it. Everything it seems has a place in the food-chain and a self-preservation strategy.
Zulu also points out various species of plants. The acacia trees, favourite food for Elephants, have been re-named, as have many species here. DNA evidence has shown that some categories defined by Linnaeus centuries ago are questionable. Our main object of interest this morning is a giant Baobab tree.


It’s not actually a tree but a succulent and you can see this by the texture of the trunk. This one might be about five hundred years old. The inside of the Baobab tree is fibrous, so chunks can be dug out, dried and spun into rope and textiles. The tree is deciduous and most of the leaves have fallen, leaving fruit hanging on the branches. Zulu picks up a fallen fruit and opens it to show the white edible parts which we try. The inner seeds are revealed. These are also very useful as baby food and the husk can be ground down and made into oil for the skin or cooking.
After breakfast we have two options: A game drive over on the mainland or a canoe expedition down the river. I opt for the Drive and we watch the canoes float away as we follow in a boat, meeting up with our driver/guides.

Our first encounter is a group of female Impala screened by tall grass – almost invisible. Termite hills are ubiquitous and, in some cases enormous. They play a vital part in the ecology of the area. Along the river bank we spot more Hippos and birds. The Elephants it seems have moved on.

Lunch is another gastronomic triumph, also catering for celiac and lactate intolerance. By now, meal times are lively with erudite conversations. I am so comfortable talking with other older Gays and Lesbians with great life and educational experience. The Americans have a pact – to enjoy a Trump-free holiday. This is a challenge as conversations inevitably move in the that direction. Someone reminds us, and we alter course.
There is no cell phone coverage or 4/5G here and it will be the same in Botswana. There has been no need to get a local sim card. There is Wifi in our rooms and in the lounge area and our main communication is by WhatsApp. Frankly it’s a relief not to know what is going on in the world or to be more precise, what the media reporting to be going on.
We have a break after lunch and I try out the swimming pool – once again only four strokes from end to end. The water is refreshing in the hot afternoons.


Afternoon tea is followed by another game drive on the mainland. The elephants are back and we also spot Kudu Antelopes and giraffes. The pattern of the African safari is set and like clockwork we end up at a vantage point to see the sunset. We are on the riverbank and behind us it the lagoon where the Elephants were yesterday.


Today, only a pair of Kudu are drinking in the fading light. We are having Gin and Tonics with nibbles. Bill is telling some of us about the small foundation he is involved with, funding places in universities for those less well-off. This is topical and I am almost brought to tears to hear how proud they are of their achievements and sense that there is a threat.
Back on the Island it’s more drinks around the fire pit and gourmet time again. Everything is included, so it could be a boozer’s paradise here, but it isn’t. No one is getting drunk and besides we have a six thirty wake-up call to be ready for a seven am Game drive in the morning.